Tuesday, 25 March 2014


Over the past month I have been contacted by so many people and have managed to secure the precious and ever so elusive pattern Vogue V8259 that I have looked the world over for.  Not only did I get a copy of one just down the road from where I live but I was sent one from America and one from France.  Now I have this incredible pattern in every size that Vogue made.  As a result I am able to help out others who are searching for this pattern.  

If you are reading this and need a copy of this pattern, please contact me and I'll try to assist where possible.  

To make sure my decision is well analysed and digested before I cut into my precious Linton Tweed fabric, I also purchased the other two Vogue patterns which are frequently made into Chanel Style Jackets to compare them. Fortunately Vogue patterns have sales frequently so I was able to get them for $3.99, super reasonable.  

My summary of the three patterns most commonly used for Chanel Style Jackets is as follows:

1. Vogue Pattern V8259

An oldy but a goody.  I totally see why this pattern is almost impossible to locate.  It is far more structured and complex than all other patterns combined.  I have a sneaking suspicion this this might be very close to the real Chanel pattern.  I'd like to think so anyway as it has so many pieces and looks so beautiful even as a tissue pattern. On the image below it is the pattern pieces on the left hand side, consisting of #6, 7 and 8.  There is also a side panel which attaches to pattern piece #7. Just the body of this pattern consists of pattern pieces #6, 7, 8, 9 & 10 without the lining pieces or the sleeve pieces.  The sleeve has three pieces making it a very structured well designed sleeve.  You can see there is a lot to this jacket pattern, 20 pieces in fact.

2. Vogue Pattern V7975

This pattern is frequently used for the Chanel style jacket with great effect but it has no side panel and has a two piece sleeve.  This alone makes it a much less structured and thereby less complex article to make.  I would recommend this pattern for anyone who is not a seasoned seamstress because it will look lovely but be much quicker to put together.  On the image below it is the pattern piece in the middle #2.  It is longer and nipped in at the waist and it has two pieces on each side to the front of the jacket.  There are just 12 pieces to this pattern.

3. Vogue Pattern V8804

This is the Vogue pattern that Claire Shaeffer uses in her classes.  I am guessing that this is because V8259 is no longer in print and so so hard to find.  It closely resembles the original (V8259) but it is definitely not the original.  For anyone wanting to make a Chanel style jacket this is the pattern that I would buy and use if I were unable to locate V8259.  Bear in mind that it has a slightly shorter sleeve so if you want a longer sleeve on this jacket you will need to adjust it.  On the image below the two front pieces are pattern pieces #1 and 4 on the right hand side and in addition there is also a small side panel to this pattern.  The side panel attaches to the side of pattern piece #4.  There are 16 pieces to this pattern.

Having reviewed all the patterns in detail, before I commit to cutting up my precious Linton Tweed I have gone to the source of inspiration, Lady Shaeffer herself, to ask her which pattern she truly feels is the better of the three.  Of course this will only be her opinion but as she's made them all I feel her word is worth a lot to me.  When I have Claires response I will include it here and go about cutting and fitting my toile.  This takes a lot of time but is well worth the end result.  This is a couture jacket so the cutting of the designer fabric is only done after the toile is fitted and marked perfectly.  The designer fabric is then cut into squares not around the pattern pieces like regular home sewing and the pattern is then hand tacked onto the square.  Couture sewing is by far the most accurate, time consuming but exquisite style of sewing and the techniques are used by the most high end fashion houses, for dresses worn by your favourite red carpet celebs.

To some this may seem like a ridiculously long process just to make a jacket but to me this is a work of art, a project worthy of my commitment to spend a real lot of my time creating.  To do this I wont be leaving anything to chance so progress is at my pace just how I enjoy it the most.  I am certain that I will be very proud of the end product and then I'll do the second one.

Since starting this months blog Vogue have introduced yet another Claire Shaeffer pattern V8991.  This pattern has all the hallmarks of V8259 however it is cut to the neckline on the front panel and not to the shoulder seam.  It also has just two pockets to the front seam and much longer sleeve opening.  I'm not sure I like the sleeve on this pattern.

The patterns can be seen here: http://voguepatterns.mccall.com  by searching for Claire Shaeffer in the search bar.  

While you are there take a look and the totally gorgeous new dress pattern V8999.  We really are channeling those gorgeous elegant early 20th century dresses.

I can only imagine the work in this dress.  So very pretty.....


  1. Very nice overview of these patterns. Which one did you use?

  2. Very nice overview of these patterns. Which one did you use?

  3. Thank you Elle. I am using 8259 because of the sleeve and removing the stand up collar. I am having Claire Shaeffer fit my toile.

  4. Thank you Elle. I am using 8259 because of the sleeve and removing the stand up collar. I am having Claire Shaeffer fit my toile.

  5. I am in a complete muddle about which pattern to use: V8804 or the new V8991. I wonder how many pieces in V8991, which I have just ordered 5 min ago before reading your blog. (I was a bit put off by the motorbike helmet on the envelope photo :).)

    Like you, Danielle, I am not so fussed on the sleeves and I wonder if I want the collar after all. Claire Shaeffer's book is on its way to me and perhaps I should switch to the V8804 if that lends itself more to what might be in her book, The Couture Cardigan Jacket.

    Any advice??

    1. So sorry for the delay in responding to your question. The fit is personal as some like it really fitting and others prefer more a cardigan type top but the 3 piece sleeve is a must. I have a toile of 8259 and I have seen a toile of 8804. 8804 is a lovely fitting garment but it has the shorter sleeve. 8259 is a matronly style but leaves room for perfect fit.The reality is that whatever style you choose make sure your toile is perfect before you touch your fashion fabric.

  6. I am just about to make the V8999. I could only get 45" wide fabric so cutting it will be an event on its own. I am a 14 on bottom and 16 on top so I intend to cut the size 14 on the gored part and the size 16 top part and simply sew 4 seams to .5" front and back at the top of the gore where it fits on the bodice. Each seam will then give .25" (1/8 " on each side) and I need 1" along the back and another inch along the front so that should do it!

  7. I would love to see the photos of your dress when you have made it. Please check back then.


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