Over the past month I have been contacted by so many people and have managed to secure the precious and ever so elusive pattern Vogue V8259 that I have looked the world over for. Not only did I get a copy of one just down the road from where I live but I was sent one from America and one from France. Now I have this incredible pattern in every size that Vogue made. As a result I am able to help out others who are searching for this pattern.
If you are reading this and need a copy of this pattern, please contact me and I'll try to assist where possible.
To make sure my decision is well analysed and digested before I cut into my precious Linton Tweed fabric, I also purchased the other two Vogue patterns which are frequently made into Chanel Style Jackets to compare them. Fortunately Vogue patterns have sales frequently so I was able to get them for $3.99, super reasonable.
My summary of the three patterns most commonly used for Chanel Style Jackets is as follows:
1. Vogue Pattern V8259
An oldy but a goody. I totally see why this pattern is almost impossible to locate. It is far more structured and complex than all other patterns combined. I have a sneaking suspicion this this might be very close to the real Chanel pattern. I'd like to think so anyway as it has so many pieces and looks so beautiful even as a tissue pattern. On the image below it is the pattern pieces on the left hand side, consisting of #6, 7 and 8. There is also a side panel which attaches to pattern piece #7. Just the body of this pattern consists of pattern pieces #6, 7, 8, 9 & 10 without the lining pieces or the sleeve pieces. The sleeve has three pieces making it a very structured well designed sleeve. You can see there is a lot to this jacket pattern, 20 pieces in fact.
2. Vogue Pattern V7975
This pattern is frequently used for the Chanel style jacket with great effect but it has no side panel and has a two piece sleeve. This alone makes it a much less structured and thereby less complex article to make. I would recommend this pattern for anyone who is not a seasoned seamstress because it will look lovely but be much quicker to put together. On the image below it is the pattern piece in the middle #2. It is longer and nipped in at the waist and it has two pieces on each side to the front of the jacket. There are just 12 pieces to this pattern.
3. Vogue Pattern V8804
This is the Vogue pattern that Claire Shaeffer uses in her classes. I am guessing that this is because V8259 is no longer in print and so so hard to find. It closely resembles the original (V8259) but it is definitely not the original. For anyone wanting to make a Chanel style jacket this is the pattern that I would buy and use if I were unable to locate V8259. Bear in mind that it has a slightly shorter sleeve so if you want a longer sleeve on this jacket you will need to adjust it. On the image below the two front pieces are pattern pieces #1 and 4 on the right hand side and in addition there is also a small side panel to this pattern. The side panel attaches to the side of pattern piece #4. There are 16 pieces to this pattern.
Having reviewed all the patterns in detail, before I commit to cutting up my precious Linton Tweed I have gone to the source of inspiration, Lady Shaeffer herself, to ask her which pattern she truly feels is the better of the three. Of course this will only be her opinion but as she's made them all I feel her word is worth a lot to me. When I have Claires response I will include it here and go about cutting and fitting my toile. This takes a lot of time but is well worth the end result. This is a couture jacket so the cutting of the designer fabric is only done after the toile is fitted and marked perfectly. The designer fabric is then cut into squares not around the pattern pieces like regular home sewing and the pattern is then hand tacked onto the square. Couture sewing is by far the most accurate, time consuming but exquisite style of sewing and the techniques are used by the most high end fashion houses, for dresses worn by your favourite red carpet celebs.
To some this may seem like a ridiculously long process just to make a jacket but to me this is a work of art, a project worthy of my commitment to spend a real lot of my time creating. To do this I wont be leaving anything to chance so progress is at my pace just how I enjoy it the most. I am certain that I will be very proud of the end product and then I'll do the second one.
Since starting this months blog Vogue have introduced yet another Claire Shaeffer pattern V8991. This pattern has all the hallmarks of V8259 however it is cut to the neckline on the front panel and not to the shoulder seam. It also has just two pockets to the front seam and much longer sleeve opening. I'm not sure I like the sleeve on this pattern.
The patterns can be seen here: http://voguepatterns.mccall.com by searching for Claire Shaeffer in the search bar.
While you are there take a look and the totally gorgeous new dress pattern V8999. We really are channeling those gorgeous elegant early 20th century dresses.
I can only imagine the work in this dress. So very pretty.....
